The timing belt tensioner pulley may make a squealing noise from the timing cover area on cold startup. An updated tensioner with a thicker mounting bracket to eliminate vibration may be needed to solve the problem.
Resources for the Repair and Maintenance of your 1999 Mazda Protege
1999 Mazda Protege
1999 Mazda Protege Problems
Misfires under load (acceleration) can be caused by leaky spark plug boots. When a spark plug boot leaks, it allows the spark to arc, or jump, to the cylinder head. New spark plug wires will be needed.
An electrically shorted air flow sensor can cause a crank-no start condition. Diagnosis may show that ignition spark is normal, and there are no trouble codes stored.
A loose or corroded ground terminal on the driver's side of the cylinder head can cause a rough idle, misfires, and there may be trouble codes. Restore the ground to the cylinder head.
1999 Mazda Protege Recalls (Recent)
Summary: VEHICLE DESCRIPTION: PASSENGER VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH A PARTICULAR FACTORY INSTALLED AUDIO UNIT. IF THE VEHICLE IS OPERATED AT LOW SPEED IN A HOT AND HUMID ENVIRONMENT WITH THE WINDOW OPEN, AIR CONDITIONER RUNNING, AND AUDIO ON, CONDENSED WATER ON THE A/C DUCT SURFACE COULD DROP AND ENTER INTO THE AUDIO UNIT, CAUSING A SHORT CIRCUIT.Learn more »
1999 Mazda Protege Questions and Answers
Pedal squeals when depressed - noticably 1st to 2nd gear & reverse. Now I hear a clunking sound - ex I was at a full stop, making a left hand turn, when I released the clutch pedal to turn the...
I have had this car fixed 2 times for this same problem. It actually stalled when I was driving it the first 2 times and would not restart. This time, it will stall if I am not continually going ...
I have had this car fixed 2 times for this same problem. It actually stalled when I was driving it the first 2 times and would not restart. This time, it will stall if I am not continually going at...
where is the fuel filter located at on a 99 mazda protoge
1999 Mazda Protege Reviews
how do i replace the speed sensor
Really fun car to drive. Maintenance isn't tough. at 140 000 miles, and going strong. Get the upgraded EGR valve (cheaper at the dealer than at auto parts stores) to solve that problem with rough idle. Also causing rough idle was a leaking intake manifold gasket. Clean the MAF occasionally with electrical contact cleaner, and had to set the valve lash at 120 000 (much quieter at startup at -20 now). Use a synthetic ATF like Mobil1 or AMSOIL (otherwise it needs to be changed frequently to keep from slipping). Ok, engine mounts had to be replaced, and a control arm (bad ball joint). replaced the steering rack, but that was due to an accident the car was previously in. Brakes - not happy with any aftermarkets apart from the OEM Akebono (anything else warps the rotors and leads to vibration). Even non-OEM drums caused me vibration. Original muffler (but had to replace the front exhaust pipe). Do yourself a favor and upgrade tire size to a +1, and enjoy the grip! Directional signal switch and radio needed electrical contacts cleaned to keep running. Alternator failed, and replaced. Oh - sudden one-time 'shake' at speed has been identified on a few sites as a turbine speed sensor - a $30 part taking 10 minutes to replace. A failing throttle position sensor will prevent trans shifting - hit 7000 rpm, changed the $40 sensor (from dealer) and all was good. Dealer also gives me a better price on belts and spark plugs than auto shops. Happy with car!
brakes and suspension noisy. plus I get the dreaded engine light(EGR CODE) from time to time.I keep medium grade gas in it, it doesn't like low grade gas.