A cosmetic crack may develop on the plastic liftgate trim panel. Ford has released a service procedure to replace the applique without damage the the liftgate glass.
Resources for the Repair and Maintenance of your 1991 Ford Explorer
1991 Ford Explorer
1991 Ford Explorer Problems
The rear window wiper may not fully contact the rear window. Our technicians tell us that replacing both the wiper blade and wiper arm will generally correct this issue.
The O-ring seals in the AC couplings can develop leaks. The condenser can also crack and leak, which is sometimes misdiagnosed as a leaking coupling. The condenser cracks out of sight, under the radiator support, so it looks like the coupler is leaking. Leak testing with fluorescent dye will help locate the exact source of the leak.
Failure to change the power steering fluid can cause the fluid to become gray with metal particles. The contaminated fluid can damage the power steering pump resulting in a growling noise when the wheel is turned; the damaged pump will require replacement to eliminate the noise.. Life of the power steering gearbox and pump will be shortened if the fluid is not serviced regularly.
The front brakes may stick, bind, or grab. This can happen when the front brake caliper pins become corroded. Cleaning or replacing the caliper pins will be necessary to correct this problem.
1991 Ford Explorer Recalls (Recent)
RepairPal Expert Overview:
Ford has recalled certain 1990 Taurus and Mercury Sable and 1991 Explorer vehicles for an issue with the front seat rigid seat belt buckles. Some buckles will not release, some will not latch at all, and some may not latch fully. All concerns pose safety risks to occupants. Dealers will replace the rigid mounted belt buckles with end release buckles.
RepairPal Expert Overview:
Ford has recalled 1991-1994 Explorer and Ranger trucks because the bolts that mount the master cylinder to the brake booster may fracture. If these bolts fracture, brake loss could occur. Dealers will replace the power brake vacuum booster assembly.
Summary: WHEN THE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION SHIFT LEVER IS PLACED IN THE PARK POSITION, THE PARK PAWL DOES NOT ALWAYS ABUT OR ENGAGE THE PARK GEAR.Learn more »
Summary: THIS IS NOT A SAFETY RECALL IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE SAFETY ACT. HOWEVER, IT IS DEEMED A SAFETY IMPROVEMENT CAMPAIGN BY THE AGENCY. EQUIPMENT DESCRIPTION: FORD IS REPLACING ALL FIRESTONE WILDERNESS AT 15, 16, AND 17 INCH TIRES MOUNTED ON FORD TRUCKS AND SUVS. FORD REPORTS TREAD SEPARATION CAN OCCUR DUE TO A COMBINATION OF THE SENSITIVITY OF THE TIRE DESIGN TO STRESS, AGING, AND MANUFACTURING DIFFERENCES BETWEEN PLANTS. FORD IS REPLACING THESE TIRES TO PREVENT POSSIBLE PREMATURE TIRE FAILURE. VEHICLE DESCRIPTION: THE VEHICLES LISTED BELOW MAY HAVE BEEN ORIGINALLY EQUIPPED WITH FIRESTONE WILDERNESS AT TIRES OR MAY HAVE HAD WILDERNESS AT TIRES INSTALLED DURING THE FIRESTONE RECALL LAUNCHED IN AUGUST 2000. CERTAIN 1991 THROUGHT 2002 FORD EXPLORER CERTAIN 2001 THROUGHT 2002 EXPLORER SPORT, AND SPORT TRAC CERTAIN 1997 THROUGH 2002 MERCURY MOUNTAINEER CERTAIN 1991 THROUGH 2001 RANGER CERTAIN 1999 THROUGH 2001 EXPEDITION CERTAIN 1991 THROUGH 1994, AND 1997 MODEL YEAR F-SERIES CERTAIN 1991 THROUGH 1994 BRONCO NOTE: BOTH ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT AND REPLACEMENT TIRES ARE AFFECTED.Learn more »
RepairPal Expert Overview:
Ford has recalled certain 1991 Explorer vehicles because a front heat shield could be contacting the fuel tank. The heat shield could rub on the tank and cause a leak. Dealers will relocate the heat shield and inspect the tanks for damage and wear.
1991 Ford Explorer Questions and Answers
what would cause a trans. to just all of a sudden lose reverse and start leaking fluid out the over flow tube. it was -15 degrees that day. just wondering what's going on here. thanks rich
when i turn on the blower motor to get heat while driving the engine shuts off and when i try to restart there is no response from the ignition and radio.. however the headlights and emergency flas...
i just got a 91 ford explorer. and it was slipping so i checked the fluid and it was a low so i toped it off. and now its fine if i drive it slow. but if i give it the gas. it fills like its slippi...
i own a ford explorer. and it slips from stop. what can i do other rebiulding the trans?
1991 Ford Explorer Reviews
91 Ford Explorer- I have a vehicle now that is 20 years old and the mileage is now at 402,000 mi. Purchased in '93 with about 50K miles.I have personally done about 100 oil changes now. I have used Pennz. 20W50 oil and Fram filters for most of its life. I fitted the oil drain hole with a valve to be used with a short hose having screw on fitting that opens as you hand thread on. (No wrench required!!) The filter is easy to do along with the vehicle height= easy access. I have maintained it myself except for transmission rebuilds. (Prob. 3-4) average cost each $1200 only soft parts & torque converter. I figured it costs you about a penny a mile not to manually shift. I have never had the valve covers off however they leak some oil. The paint (forest green) is showing primer just on top surfaces. I've done many spark plug changes using conventional plugs @$1.50 each. Driver side ones are a breeze and passenger side 1 rear plug easier from under near oil filter. I am seeing oil deposits on cylinder #5 plug now with a little decrease in power. I installed a cat-back Flowmaster exhaust/muffler after the factory setup rusted through. Only suspension prob. are inexpensive nylon bushings on the front struts which will wear some. If you put a small cooler in front and route the power steering fluid thru it, it keeps seals and fluid fresh for a long time. (Like the stock oil cooler but smaller) The plug wires and hoses are now 20 years old. Protect them from chafing. Most all engine bolt on devices (pumps,etc.) have been replaced once. Belts, tires and shocks more. I don't think I could have had any thing more reliable except when the battery gave up about every 4 years.
I have a 1991 ford explorer and it runs fine, but sometio=mes when I get on the freeway or go up a hill my car slows down with my feet all the down on the gas pedal it then picks up and go like nothing happen.
My Mom bought my 91 explorer used in 95. when she bought her 04 f150 she just let the explorer sit so i took it upon myself to start toying with it. As of now it has 347000k on it. i replaced the transmission at 345000k so i would say its pulled its weight because it is still driving strong and i hope it always will.
Parents bought the car when I graduated 6th grade and gave it to me end of college. Had 94,000 at that time (brand new when they got it), and now has 224,000. Still going strong all around almost 20 years later!
Changed the transmission for the first time at 166,000 miles. Was having a hard time getting from 1st to 2nd. Clutch plates all worn out. Got a rebuilt from Ford, and they damaged the replacement by not securing the vaccuum line, so I got a third one week later. No problems since.
Does not under most scenarios like to rev, shifts earlier then 4,000 even under moderate to heavy load, which is okay since the girl doesn't make much power at the top end anymore. Awesome torque off the line to 3,000, so is very drivable even with a load through anything.
Very comfortable to drive, even cross country for hours and hours at a time. TONS of space throughout, front and back. They don't make cars this spacious anymore, the newer ones even with similar wheelbases push the engine further back and the dashboard with it, infringing on interior space in all sorts of ways.
I put a Flowmaster 40 series two chamber exhaust and racing cats with 2.5" stainless steel pipe. Saw much more power, easier to get up hills, and my mileage every tank is 17.5 or higher with lots of city. Cross country avg with the air on was 21, which for an oldie pushrod is I think impressive, kept the avg at 72. Any more and kiss your mileage goodbye. It's not built for speed, both in the gearing and the aerodynamics.
Original engine, had the timing chain replaced around 160,000. Flywheel done at same time due to damage from multiple bad starters. Noisy power steering pump plagues all Fords from this era. Makes a mess under the hood - fluid leaks through the cap if you turn the wheels while the engine's not running for instance.
Somehow since the beginning there's been a leak in the reserve radiator fluid tank, but I can't find any fluid in the driveway or in the bay. Put fluid in, it's gone within a month. Leave it alone and the radiator's still full, so nothing wrong there or with those hoses...
Original R-12 A/C was never impressive, replaced with an all new R-134 setup in 2000, works like a champ now. Just recently had to have my rear wheel cylinders (brake fluid regulator for the shoes) replaced for possibly the first time.
Ride is never supple, it's a truck, but it is smooth enough to not be punishing. New shocks never seem to last, but the wheels don't hop at speed, and control is surprisingly good when pushing the car hard on asphault. Body lean is noticeable, but predictable. Springs are tough as nails and still don't bottom out when pushed off-road.
Electrical in the car's been solid, no sensor failures I can recall. I have platinum +4 Bosch spark plugs and 8mm wire in there, which seemed to make a minor difference in idling and they generally last longer.
Replaced all fuel injectors and saw no difference in performance, changed at 120,000 miles, was an expensive decision.
Leather inside of course cracks and needs replacing in multiple areas, has not been cared for as it should be. What pieces I've replaced so far have held up well. Driver window regulator and rear window regulator both failed within a couple years of each other. Expensive to fix. Multiple door lock and window switch contacts rusted out, simple to fix. Wiper fob internal contacts also corroded and was replaced. Intermittent setting wasn't working reliably. Rear wiper motor now gets stuck when first used if it's been a while since last tried.
Motor for years has also had lifter noise when cold or extremely hot and under a load. Am told not to worry and the power's still there. I just baby it any time I can during these times. I change the oil every 3,000 miles with non synthetic 10w40. Used 20w50 for a few years while replacing every worn gasket under the sun (CA eats those things up). Rear main twice, intake manifold, oil pan, both valve covers, and something else.
Brakes don't last long in the front if you tow, rear is only drum, so the fronts get the short end of the stick and they have a lot of steel to stop. Rear diff supposedly only needs fluid changed every 100,000 miles, I do it more frequently, no real rhyme or reason.
Interior has on the whole held up well, some pieces are rattling now naturally and the panels in some cases are missing small trim pieces which aren't deal breakers. Not ever enough time for me to get to the junkyard looking for replacement pieces. Steering wheel last year had the button for Cruise ON fall out, I have to use a small screwdriver now to push the recessed contact.
It's never left us stranded anywhere, has been everywhere, sounds great, can take any load (huge cargo capacity and all the right dimensions), and is easy to work on. I love it very much, and hope to hold onto it as long as it still keeps running!