The intake manifold gasket may develop and external engine oil or coolant leak. In some cases, an internal coolant leak may occur causing coolant to mix with the engine oil. Our technicians tell us that operating the engine with a coolant/oil mix can result in internal engine damage. Replacing the intake manifold gasket should correct these leaks.
Resources for the Repair and Maintenance of your 1999 Chevrolet Malibu
1999 Chevrolet Malibu
1999 Chevrolet Malibu Problems
Illumination of the Check Engine Light can be caused by a loose or worn gas cap.
The passlock sensor in the ignition lock cylinder may fail causing an anti-theft system fault and a no start condition. Our technicians tell us that the ignition lock cylinder should be replace to correct this condition.
The HVAC blower motor may stop working at one or more speeds due to a faulty blower motor resistor block. Our technicians recommend to confirm the resistor is at fault by first checking the operation of the switch.
The turn signal switch may fail causing the hazard/turn signal flasher to continue to click even when the turn signal switch is off. Replacing the faulty turn signal switch will commonly correct this condition.
1999 Chevrolet Malibu Questions and Answers
What does it mean when the ABS warning light comes on?
I need to replace the engine in my Malibu. Coolant leaks into oil.
What is the average cost of replacement in the Dayton, Ohio area?
I had to replace the Intake Manifold Gasket in my car. One week Iam having the same trouble again. On the labor description is says: Intake Manifold Gasket-Remove aned replace. Does that mean also...
Just had intatke manifold gaskets replaced due to their failure, and now leaks out of recovery tank. At idle, it is fine, but runs hot after about 10 minutes of driving. have already replace the ...
1999 Chevrolet Malibu Reviews
About a year ago I started hearing a thumping noise, mostly when I turned left but also at other times. I only had about 115,000 miles so it was not like the car was totally shot. I took it to a local shop who diagnosed it as the left front lower control arm. We did the repair, cost about $250, and I thought that was it. Wrong! The noise was still there so I went back. This time I was told it was the stabilizer bar, that it was cracked. This repair was going to be another $400 to fix what I thought had just been fixed. So I hesitated and sought a second opinion. The next diagnosis was that the main engine mounts were totally shot, that the movement of the engine with acceleration and deceleration were causing the problem. So I had this done. More money. Well, that didn't do the job either. I talked to someone else with a background in aeronautics as well as auto repair who suggested it was unibody flex, a condition where metal fatigue sets in from age and as you drive the frame crinks a little kind of like when you rumple a piece of aluminum foil. The condition is not correctable and I would have to live with it. Well I was not satisfied with that so I sought out another mechanic who thought it was either the left front strut or the strut cover. Depending on which, this repair would run $400 to $600. Now I was really annoyed. Nobody agreed. So I decided to do what up to now I had avoided, go to a dealer and pay the diagnostic fee. Well, this diagnosis was the most disheartening. A laundry list of items, the main being a new steering rack and power steering pump. Their cost? About $1600. Wow. Add it all up. Around $3000. More than the value of the car. The thumping was awful,constant and drove me nuts, but since I didn't know for sure who was right I couldn't do anything.
So I moved on to my other problem. I wanted to fix my ABS system in advance of what I fear is going to be a very snowy winter. The sensor is in the axle bearing hub. The left front was diagnosed as bad so I had the entire hub replaced.
I couldn't believe it. THE THUMPING NOISE DISAPPEARED!
The feedback I got from two experienced mechanics was that there was a hairline crack in the hub or a hub bearing and it was telegraphing to all areas of the front of the car. So if anyone else has this problem think twice before you get deep into expensive repairs.
Bought this car brand new, have always taken god care of it like any responsible owner should and in return has treated us well. Has never left us broke down on the side of the road. That said we have done some expensive maintenance to it, but thats just it Maintencance. We replaced the head gaskets, and intake manifold gasket. Just replaced the exhaust system, the a/c heat control panel, no problems with the brakes, just replace the pads and rotors every 5 years or so. Replaced the front struts at 65k and the rear at 70k.. All electrical is working fine after 12 years, still rides and handles great, lots of room inside, we plan on keeping this car for many more years yet. It is a great car. So many people just beat on their cars, drive and drive and dont do any p.m. at all, then they wonder why it starts to fall apart ..Take care of your vehicle people and it will take care of you.
Front suspension went at about 65,000 miles. Both rear window regulators failed soon after that. Always been an issue with the A/C switch---it often turns off, so the cool air suddenly goes warm. Not a horrible car, but definitely has enough issues to make me not want to buy another Chevy.
Excellent car..it was my first car and it is extremely reliable..ive had some serious problem with mine due to my driving (motor mounts, head gaskets) but its always cheap to fix....