Before just replacing parts, I would first check the battery see that it is 12.6 volts at rest if not charge the battery and have it tested using a hydrometer and a high rate discharge test to ensure it is OK. Next with the car properly supported and out of gear (In Park) get a friend to turn the ignition key to the "starter position" and verify that you have voltage on the purple wire at the starter. If you donot have voltage when cranking on this wire you could have a blown "rust colored fuse link", a bad ignition switch or a bad inhibitor switch.
Labor guide shows about .7hours to replace the starter so it should be relatively easy. I do see note of a shim between the starter and the bell housing so ensure this gets reinstalled when you fit the new starter if that is what is found to be defective.
Symptom: No start. It has spark but no injector pulse and no MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp).
Problem: No power to the B+ terminals at the ECM due to a burned fusible link near the battery or poor connection at the fusible link connector.
Test & Fix: Check for a bad fusible link near the battery. If used, it is a single wire connector that looks similar to an O2 sensor connector. This circuit provides memory power to the PCM. Repair as necessary.
Customer Concern: No spark or injector pulse.
Tests/Procedures: 1. Check B+ and B- at the 2 wire connector at the Ignition Control Module (ICM) while cranking.
2. If OK, replace the ICM and Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor at the same time.
Potential Causes: Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP)
Ignition Control (IC) Module
Tech Tips: There is no way to check acv from the CKP sensor since it plugs directly into the ICM.