2002 Cadillac Seville SLS Questions
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ABS, Brake and traction control light will not go out on dashboard. Tried disconnecting battery and reconnecting it, but lights still remain on
2092cadillac seville sls has a front end driver side knocking sound around tire area. Is it suspension?
The alarm begins to sound i was getting a new key made but never did i decided to wait for my wife to return from out of state with the original key but i think the chip is not matching up or something the lock smith may have changed the code for the chip now my chip isnt working is there a quick fix
I recently took my car to a repair shop to get the brake pads changed, a tune-up, and my windshield wiper stopped working. They couldn't get my windshield wipers to work and in the process of trying to fix that the battery went dead and somehow messed up the computer. The keys will not crank the car. Both the keys and the computer has been programmed and it still doesn't work. When I purchased the car the only key I was given was a Pontiac key, ,which has been working fine up until now. I replaced the ECM in the car because the windows along with several other electrical parts stop working in the car. Once that problem was fixed everything was working again except the windshield wipers. My vehicle is now at a Chevrolet dealer who can't seem to get the key to crank the car and all they are doing is adding on labor charges and not fixing the problem.
my mechanic as changed some type of switch three times and set idle on computer, but after driving a little the car does same thing.
When I'm driving the car idle high then it gets sluggish and take a while to accelerate then it backfires and shut off then it starts back up and continues to do that every day
The car has 133,000 km on it and I checked the codes and there are none. The car idles fine when started but after driving a bit it develops a rough idle at stop signs or in park. After driving on the highway for a while the rough idle is much more pronounced when stopped (in gear or in park) and fluctuates up and down several hundred RPM. As soon as I am driving again there is no RPM fluctuation or misses that I notice. It runs fine underway but not at stop to the extent that it seems like it might totally stall...although it has not to this point.
Is anyone able to provide any insight about what the problem might be?
IT JUST STARTED WHERE MY CAR HAS FULL ELECTRICAL POWER WHEN THE KEYS IN THE ON POSITION BUT WHEN I TURN IT TO START IT IT MAKES NO SOUND. WHY ?
What harm does does it do to not replace a faulty "fuel level sensor" on this car? In my first question I failed to specify which sensor I was referring to. At any rate all else applies insofar as to the approximate 80 K miles being driven since the fuel gauge has worked, and the "check gas cap issue only began within the last couple of weeks, after discovering and repairing some vacuum leaks and broken wires. Gas cap replaced changed nothing. I do not live in a EPA required County. So, I repeat, "what harm does it do to my car to continue driving it with the non functioning fuel level sensor"?
I keep up with when gas is needed by mileage and with the readout in the on board computer that shows "gallons of fuel used". My biggest irritation is the "CHECK GAS CAP" that keeps popping on and the "CHECK ENGINE SOON" that returns on a consistent basis. There is no E-check law in my county, and I have not discovered any ill-effects to my car after approximately 80,000 miles in this condition. Although the "CHECK GAS CAP" signal has only begun recently after discovery and repair of about 4 vacuum leaks and 3 broken wires.