I bought the blazer and the guy mislead me to what was wrong with it. I got it started with a new battery coil wires plugs cap and rotor. But it just kept cranking for awhile and sputtering like it wanted to start until it finally started. Now it takes a jump to keep the battery charger enough for it to crank and sputter until it starts. It gets fuel because it floods itself. Once it starts it runs perfect though. I'm clueless please lend any advice you can. Its getting spark to the plugs but idk if it only sparks intermittently. What could this be. Took it to AutoZone and it showed a code for camshaft to crankshaft correlation fault. Replaced the camshaft positioning sensor and cleaned the crankshaft positioning sensor and it didn't help at all.
Blazer wont start on 2000 Chevrolet Blazer
2 answers 8 comments
have it ck'd by your mech, not auto zone
Ok so cam someone explain what a correlation fault is. What does it mean. I took it to my mechanic and told him the check engine light was on. He called me the next day and said that my battery and a battery cable needed to be replaced and that it was gonna be 400 dollars. I told him not to fix it because I know this isn't the starting problem. Can't really afford to take it to another mechanic seen as that one is garbage. So can someone explain what this fault means. I just replaced the camshaft and the crankshaft positioning sensor and it didn't help at all. The guy I bought it from said that the distributor might be a tooth off he wasn't sure. But when it starts it runs fine. Could the distributor be the starting problem.
The crank sens and cam sens are used to time the response of the computer to fire the plugs and pulse the injectors. The computer is noticing that they do not signal at the same time. So the computer wants this checked so it will make sense and it will be able to make the engine run properly. Just a short story, does this help you understand. The distributor being off a tooth could cause this as well. The timing has to be set with a scan tool as well. If it is scanned, you can see if the timing is correct. That V6 distributer can not be turned to adjust perfectly so the correlation set must be done so the computer can adjust for it.
So if the distributor is a tooth off it could cause this problem. So if I took the distributor and moved it a tooth it could fix this problem?
If you move it the right direction. A data scanner would let you know for sure. Remember it might start or run at all, because you can't adjust it, only moves slightly with the mounting bracket. Moving it 1 tooth is a long way for that distributor. Could remove the bracket and fix it so you can adjust the timing and still tighten it. Just a comment.
Well the guy I bought it from had the whole distributor out and he said now that I bought it of course that he might have been a tooth off when he put it back in. So I figure I I moved it one tooth to the right out it back together and it don't start. Then I'll move it two teeth to the left. I've already put 400 into this vehicle. So I'm trying to eliminate everything I can think of now.
Let me know. Read all of what I said.
Correlation fault is learned with a scan tool, like the Tech2. This tool can be used for the computer to learn the correlation. A thought is a lot of the 4.3L had a problem with the fuel injectors. It's a one piece control. Have it checked out to be sure.
Have it checked out at AutoZone or a mechanic?