1994 Ford Aerostar Q&A
1994 Ford Aerostar Question: BATTERY PROBLEM
I RECENTLY HAD A BATTERY BLOW UP IN MY FACE AND I'AM VERY SCARRED OF THE PIECE OF JUNK NOW. I TRIED TO HOOK UP A PORTABLE JUMPER THAT HAD BEEN CHARGING FOR AT LEAST THE WHOLE WEEK. CONNECTING (BLACK)THE GROUND TO THE NEGATIVE CABLE, AND THE POSITIVE (RED) TO JUST THE THE STARTER RELAYS THIN RED WIRE) NOT THE THICK RED WIRE TO THE STARTER. THE LIGHT UNDER THE HOOD LIGHT UP, BUT WHEN I TRY TO TURN ON THE ACC. INSIDE TO RAISE THE POWER WINDOWS OR THE POWER DOOR LOCKS IT INSTANTLY DRAINED THE BOOSTER BATTERY. WHY IS THIS? IS THERE STILL A MEGA SHORT SOMWERE?(THIS IS WHAT I THOUGHT WAS WRONG WITH THE BIG RED STARTER WIRE.) WHEN I PULLED UP ON IT TRYING TO GET IT TO REACH THE POSI TOP POST WHEN IT BLEW UP LAST TIME. PLEASE HELP I DON'T WANT TO TAKE MY CHANCES REALLY, AND MAYBE HAVE IT BLOW UP AGAIN. OR SHOULD I CALL PEPBOYS TO TOW IT IN AND LET THEM CHECK IT ALL FOR ME.( BUT DON'T REALLY WANT TO PAY $1OO TO $150 FOR A NEW BATTERY THATS REALLY NOT THAT GOOD FROM PEPBOYS, OR SEARS'S JUNK BATTERIES EITHER. I'M A INTERSTATE BATTERY FAN MYSELF. BUT IF ITS GOING TO BLOW UP, I DON'T WANT ANYTHING NEW . A SHELTON REBUILT BATTERY FOR $29.95 PLUS $9.OO CORE SINCE I HAD NOTHINFG LEFT OF THE OTHER BATTERY. WARRENTIED FOR A YEAR. THANKS GUYS AND EVERYONE HAVE A GOOD XMAS. - cheveronjim
Jim! Dave again. Listen - sorry to hear you are still having problems. I want to comment and try to help -- please try to understand and believe that your original battery blew up because it was gassing and there was a spark. That's it. I can appreciate your concern and fear as I have already shared. A couple things to comment on from your post that are of concern: 1) The portable jumper issue proves nothing, except that it's low quality, low power and low resiliance. It's not made to run your accessories. It's only made to "boost" your battery for moments so that you may crank a time or two. The fact it drains down means nothing, really, as far as your car goes. 2) Can't be a "mega short". 3) Pulling up on the positive wire created a spark around the battery area, which is what caused your explosion. All because the NEGATIVE cable was already attached, or was grounded. This is why i mentioned before that it's imperative that you ALWAYS connect the postive battery cable first. 4) Always connect your jumper to your positive cable first - to the battery itself with the positive cable fastened. THEN, connect the negative jumper to a remote ground, away from the battery. This will keep sparks from flying by a possibly gassing battery. When removing, ALWAYS remove the negative first. I really do think you should take it to a pro, just for safety's sake and peace of mind. Don't get too excited about battery brands - Interstate is indeed one of the best, but it's not the only good battery out there. Just FYI - Interstate is only one of the brands made by arguably the best car battery manufacturer in the business - Johnson Controls. Johnson Controls makes a bunch of different brands of batteries, though. For example, they make Motorcraft batteries for Ford...for one example. I agree about Sears - my personal opinion is that the Die Hard has lost its luster over the years (hint: Johnson Controls made Die Hards until 1993, when Sears dropped them in favor of Exide...and everything changed...big...). Anyway be advised that there is no such thing as a "rebuilt" or "reconditioned" battery. Those are simply brought to market as CLEAN used batteries. You cannot physically "recondition" them without disassembly at a factory. This is during the recycling process. Frankly, you run a higher risk blowing up a "rebuilt" battery than any other. This is because these are bascially USED and DISCARDED batteries - remarketed for a quick buck....... In any case, please be careful, and enjoy your holiday. I hope it is good for you in the end! - DaveJHM
I was installing a new interstate battery, and about 35 to 45 seconds after it blew up right in front of me. what would cause this to happen.
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