Q&A

 Master

I would want to have proper instructions just to have the proper torque wrench settings. I forget if that car has a big "torxs" socket needed to remove the axle nut but all the other hardware is metric. I know I replaced one a while ago wasn't a big or complex job. Autozone have some popular workshop manuals for free on line once you register (for free) on their website http://bit.ly/autozone_repair_info .There is a company that independent auto repair shops "buy" their information from that offer a very reasonable service to do it yourselvers. You get a one year subscription to year make and model specific repair procedures, service bulletins, component locations, wiring diagrams ect.... great quality information same as the professionals have ,much better than generic workshop manuals from parts stores, much cheaper than the factory manual. http://bit.ly/alldata_repair_manuals or try http://bit.ly/mitchell_repair_manuals_online and get an online repair manual subscription.

 Journeyman

if you plan to change the whole axel because a boot or joint is bad, i would suggest you just repair the piece needed. aftermarket axels are often rebuilt "junk" that cause more problems then they solve. as far as how hard, depends on your talent and how siezed some bolts can be. the only odd tools that you will need are a 17mm allen socket for the main axel bolt and a #10 spline socket (maybe #8 i forget) for the axel to trans bolts. to make enough clearance to remove the axel you will need to either pop out the upper control arms by removing the pinch bolt (which usually siezes) or unbolt the lower guide link (big curved arm). if you loosen any bolts in rubber bushings be sure to tighten them with the car not raised. before ever jacking your car remember to turn off the air suspension (service mode).