Apex Automotive and Emissions

(480) 418-3821
18 Verified Reviews

7:30am to 5:00pm
7:30am to 5:00pm
7:30am to 5:00pm
7:30am to 5:00pm
7:30am to 5:00pm


21622 N 7th Ave
Phoenix, AZ 85027 USA


  • David Dyer, Owner
  • Established 2011
  • 3 Auto Repair Mechanics on Staff
  • 27 Years of Car Repair Experience

Apex Automotive and Emissions Reviews


18 Verified Reviews
5 stars
4 stars
3 stars
2 stars
1 star
by - Verified Customer July 25, 2015

Amazing service, very honest and through. They exceeded my expectations as a customer from the service provided both before, during and after repairs were complete.

by - Verified Customer July 25, 2015

Great Service, honest, trustworthy

by - Verified Customer July 24, 2015

They are professional. They talk to you in terms that you can understand and they give you the price up front. I have already past on their name.

by - Verified Customer July 23, 2015


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by - Verified Customer July 14, 2015

They are professional, courteous and they get the job done at a fair price.

by - Verified Customer July 03, 2015

A friend recommended them and I received excellent customer service.

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by - Verified Customer June 29, 2015

Quick and thorough service. Very knowledgeable techs.

by - Verified Customer June 26, 2015

I've already recommended them to others.

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by - Verified Customer June 25, 2015

They are very knowledgeable and reasonably priced.

by - Verified Customer June 19, 2015

I like their quick service. The price was reasonable. I heard about them from a coworker.

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by - Verified Customer June 11, 2015

Excellent and reliable service.

by - Verified Customer June 11, 2015

I experienced excellent customer service, excellent skilled automotive repair, professional and polite explanation of what repair was needed, cost expected, and visual details for a clearer understanding of job performed. Final job completed in a timely, and extremely satisfactory way!

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by - Verified Customer May 20, 2015

Spent over $800.00 and my check engine light came right back on a few days after.

by May 11, 2015

Great Place.

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by - Verified Customer April 17, 2015

Mike Head was upfront about what needed to be fixed and what could wait and always quoted before any work was started. I also liked that they took my truck through emissions for me and made sure it passed before I came to pick it up.

by - Verified Customer March 24, 2015

They were fantastic, very knowledgeable and friendly, and very very reasonable. I think these folks are just terrific.

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by - Verified Customer February 26, 2015

The service was incredible, I would recommend too all I know.

by - Verified Customer February 17, 2015

Their customer service is great!!!! Price is reasonable. work is done when promised.

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RepairPal Scorecard


Apex Automotive and Emissions is a family owned operation that proudly serves the Phoenix area. The staff regularly attends the training necessary to keep them up to date with the latest automotive technology and are equipped with the tools and diagnostic equipment necessary to perform a wide range of repairs. These repairs can range from minor and major mechanical repairs, to check engine light diagnosis and repairs, to state smog inspections, as well as your scheduled maintenance needs. This work is backed by a 24-month / 24,000-mile warranty for your peace of mind. Our survey of their recent customers revealed a group who describe this shop as: “reliable”, “professional”, “knowledgeable”, “honest”, and “friendly”. A local shuttle service, rental & loaner cars, early bird drop off, Saturday business hours, and a waiting area with wireless Internet are available for your convenience.



  • AC/Heating
  • Check Engine Light
  • Classic Car Repair/Restoration
  • Diagnosis
  • Oil Change & Lube
  • Scheduled Maintenance
  • Service & Repair
  • Smog/Emissions Testing
  • Timing Belts
  • Transmission Repair
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  • Car Delivery
  • Car Pickup/Dropoff
  • Early Bird Dropoff
  • Financing
  • Free Multi-Point Safety Inspection
  • Loaner Car
  • Open Saturday
  • Rental Car
  • Service Guarantee
  • Shuttle
  • Warranty Accepted
  • Wireless Internet
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At Apex Automotive & Emissions, we practice and deliver thoughtful auto repair based on accurate automotive diagnostics. We build relationships with our customers and help them maintain and repair their cars, avoid unnecessary expenditures, and stretch every car dollar. This balanced approach keeps car repair affordable.


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Questions Answered by Apex Automotive and Emissions
Jumpstarted month ago,tried emissions a we...
The drive cycle needs to be completed. If the drive cycle doesn't complete itself after a few days of normal driving, I suggest having a shop proficient in emissions diagnostics and repair complete the drive cycle for you.
I put in a full tank of gas, tightened the...
You did not list the exact Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC); but, I'm guessing it was a P04xx series code since you mentioned that you changed the gas cap. Codes in this range originate from a fault in you car's Evaporative Emissions System. The "Evap" system captures, stores, and disposes of gasoline vapors in your fuel tank and fuel system. Such a code may be caused because of a faulty gas cap; or, a fuel vapor leak anywhere in the fuel containment system. I suggest having a qualified shop perform a "smoke test" and other diagnostic procedures specific to your DTC. They should be able to identify the problem for you for less than $100.00. The cost of the repair depends on the nature of the problem and can range from $50.00 to $300.00.
Alternator plug was damaged
While alternator issues and voltage spikes may cause seemingly random codes, I don't think the alternator fault is related to the P0735 code. The P0735 code is related to the transmission.

Specifically: If the Transmission Control Module detects excessive slip or drag within the transmission, then DTC P0735 sets.

Is it true that 2004 QX56 with these codes...
DTC P1168 sets when there is a problem with Bank 1 Oxygen Sensor.

DTC P1051 sets when there is a problem with Bank 1 Oxygen Sensor Heater.

Probable causes are wiring or connector for Bank 1 Oxygen Sensor.
"service engine soon" light is o...
P0412 is related to the Secondary Air System. This code is common in BMW's from 1996 - 2005. During cold starts, the secondary air system pumps fresh air into the exhaust allowing for a more complete burn of hydrocarbons (harmful emissions). The secondary air system only operates during a cold start, is audible (you can hear the pump running) and turns off after a minute or less.
Why won't my truck start when the retu...
Definition: DTC P0107 MAP Sensor Circuit Low Voltage
MAP sensor is an acronym for: manifold absolute pressure sensor (MAP sensor)
replaced a faulty Maf sensor and now the v...
It sounds like the MAF Sensor is still not functioning as intended. Connect the vehicle to a data scanner and observe the MAF reading at idle. Rule of thumb is that MAF reading should be roughly equivalent to engine size. Example: 5.7 Liter engine at idle should flow 5.7 grams/second
Example: 2.2 Liter engine at idle should flow 2.2 grams/second
Verify that the Mass Air Flow Sensor is reporting air flow close to this range. If it is not, inspect the connector and wiring harness.
have had 2 separate repairs shops check wi...
Functionality of the DLC (data link connector) is dependent on a fused power circuit. Check the index on the fuse box cover and determine which fuse supplies power to the DLC. It's likely the same fuse that powers the cigar lighter or radio. This is a common problem. ADEQ refers to this as "lack of connectivity" and identification and replacement of a blown fuse usually resolves the problem.
P1025 was the code.<br>Could the sensor be...
P0125 sets when there is a problem detected with the Throttle Position Sensor. Probable causes are:
the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor)
binding or sticking throttle linkage
the wiring harness/circuit
the PCM (Powertrain Control Module)
I had this code months ago so after I eras...
The problem is related to the vehicle's evaporative emissions system. The Evap system consists of the fuel tank, charcoal canister, and hoses that contain and dispose of fuel vapors. The "pop" was likely due to over pressurization of system caused by fuel vapors expanding.
The brake warning light illuminates under 4 conditions:
when there is low brake fluid; or,
when the low brake fluid sensor is faulty; or,
when the emergency brake is "on"; or,
when the switch which detects the position of the emergency brake is faulty.
The fix for this problem is not expensive or difficult. I would start by removing and inspecting the broken door handle. Then, buy and install a replacement door handle from your local Suzuki dealer.
The Labor Guide allows 1.3 hours. Actual time will likely be more, depending on the skill of the technician. This radiator is removed from the top so it can be done without lifting the vehicle. Drain the radiator, remove the air cleaner and hood latch assembly,remove transmission lines, remove hoses, unbolt radiator support and lift the radiator out of supports. Replacement is reverse of removal.
It&#39;s very hot &amp; I use to hear it a...
The cooling fan on your car is controlled by the cooling fan module. If you think there is a problem, have it checked out ASAP. In the mean time, watch your temperature gauge when idling, stopped, or driving in traffic.
The problem accurs only sometimes
The tansmission in your car is known as an E4OD; there are two aspects to "overdrive" in that transmission. First, when the car reaches reaches highway speed, it shifts into 4th gear. Second, once speed is stabilized, the torque converter electronically engages or "locks up." When you depress the accelerator, the computer senses that you are accelerating and the "lock up" disengages. Lockup disengagement is a very slight sensation. If you are driving uphill on a small grade or depressing the accelerator alot, the transmission will downshift to 3rd gear. The downshift sensation is more noticeable. What is described is normal function. If you think your car is not performing correctly, a properly equipped shop can connect a computer scanner and quickly determine if there is a problem.
I havent drove my car in 2 days and when I...
You probably cannot fix this problem yourself. Your AirRide suspension is at fault. Usually, the problem you describe is related to an Air Strut that has failed. An air strut is very much like a large air inflated shock absorber. Once a leak develops in an Air Ride Strut, the car deflates when parked and sinks down. Replacement of the offending strut will correct the problem. FYI, once the first strut fails, the other struts will begin to fail. In my experience, expect the rest to fail, one at a time, within the next 36 months. Struts are usually 600.00 to 800.00 each to replace and there are 4. One other potential cause of the problem you describe is the plastic tubing and fittings which supplies air to each strut.
The fans work. Clutch is engaging. Freon...
Sounds like the blend door beneath the dash, inside the airbox, is allowing heated air to blend with the cooled air. This is a common problem on Jeep Grand Cherokees. There is an update kit which fixes the problem by replacing the broken plastic hinges of the blend door with metal hinges. Since we live in Arizona, you may elect to simply bypass the heater core and save some money. You will no longer have heat inside the vehicle. You're AC will work as well as it should; but, you won't have any heat in the winter. Bypassing the heater should cost about $25.00. Fixing the actual blend door problem requires dash removal and will run $500 - $800.
add a band aid to the vaporator leaking
Stop leak is introduced into the A/C system via the low pressure service port. FYI, the low side port is smaller than the high side port. In my experience, stop leak works if the leak is small; and, only when the entire A/C system has been put into a state of vacuum to remove ALL moisture. The way the stop leak works is that it reacts with moisture to harden, thereby sealing the leak. The moisture it reacts with, ideally, is outside the system as the stop leak escapes into moisture laden atmosphere it plugs the hole. If you introduce stop leak into an A/C system that contains moisture within the system, the stop leak will harden inside the system and clog passage ways, particularly the orifice tube or expansion valve.
Once per year or more often if desired. The process following is inexpensive enough to do more often. In fleet trucks that our shop maintains, we vacuum the power steering pump reservoir every oil change; and, refill it. This method constitutes a partial fluid change. The cost to replace fluid using this method is about $15.00. Since adopting this maintenance strategy, we've replaced no power steering pumps in the last 3 years on any of our 100+ fleet trucks.
Also is wearing my tyres out prematurely. ...
Your car needs to be inspected on a lift to determine exactly what is causing the problem. It may be as simple as tires that are out of balance; or, it may be worn out bushings in the front end components. It is unlikely that the steering rack is the cause of the problem you describe.
Van was fine during trip from Indiana to P...
A single cylinder ring issue may be managed for a long time by simply staying on top of the oil level and changing that spark plug more often. A cylinder leak down test would certainly be in order if you want to assess the amount of cylinder leakage, as compared to the other cylinders. Oil into cylinder leakage can also be due to worn valve guides. The leakdown test should help pinpoint whether it's a valve guide or a ring.

Personally, I wouldn't consider repairing a ring related problem; instead, I'd opt for replacing the entire engine with a good re-manufactured unit; or, at less expense, with a good low mileage used engine. I would need to know more info to be able to quote a price; but, either ring repair or engine replacement is probably going to be more expensive than the van is worth. Managing the problem might be your best bet.
It&#39;s just the car smells gas after par...
The evaporative emissions system on all modern cars captures, contains and disposes of gasoline fumes to protect the environment. The evap system is supposed to be air tight. If you are smelling gas, there is a leak in the system somewhere. To find the leak, we "smoke test" the evap system by introducing pressurized smoke and closely watching for smoke to escape. Evap leaks are most often inexpensive to fix, usually a rubber hose or connector. Repairs may get more expensive if the leak is on top of the fuel tank requiring tank removal; or, if the problem turns out to be a the charcoal canister or the roll over protection valve. Diagnosing the problem should take about 1 hour and should be scheduled in advance because it requires lifting the car on a rack. Thanks. Dave.
Your power seat rides on what is called the "seat track". Different small electric motors turn tiny little gears to push the seat forward, backward, up and down. The grinding is most likely a stripped gear. I can locate a used seat track using my online salvage parts locator if one is available; or, source one at the chevy dealer. Once the new frame arrives, it's a simple matter to remove the seat, flip it over and swap in the new seat track, and reinstall the seat.
Check the battery and alternator and they ...
You don't want to reset the check engine light. Doing so will erase valuable diagnostic data and failure records. I've seen reduce power mode due to failed thermostatically controlled fan clutch, a shorted (APP) Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor ground wire, a Variable Camshaft Timing (VCT) Solenoid; I'm sure there are several other possible causes.
My mom&#39;s &#39;93 Mr2 with 52k on it ha...
The Power Steering Light is alerting you to a problem with the power steering relay. The relay should be tested for continuity. If it is ok, then the wiring which supplies the relay should be inspected. Probably an easy fix.
When driving &amp; come 2 stop when accele...
You need to have your car scanned for data by a technician who knows what values mean. Look at Mass Air Flow grams/sec, ignition timing, fuel pulse width, fuel trims, etc.
Since your car is front wheel drive, your rear axle thumping noise is likely strut mount bushings. This could be confirmed by watching the top strut mount while bouncing the car to see if the strut mount has play. You may also be able to recreate the thumping noise using this method. Thanks.
The air from the air conditioner blows war...
Your Taurus needs a trained technician to diagnose that kind of problem. I would separate the AC issue from the misfire issue by 1st ensuring that the AC is fully charged and functioning as intended. Then I'd connect a data scanner and try to recreate the problem. Is the check engine light on? Thanks.
is oil pressure sensor leaking
Look at the oil pressure sensor to determine if it's leaking. The sensor is near the oil filter and is connected by a single wire. If that area is dirty with oil residue, spray it clean with a couple of cans of carb or brake cleaner; and, inspect for leaks again in 2 days. That engine in known to leak at the oil filter adapter gasket. The adapter is the base plate where you thread on the oil filter that allows antifreeze coolant to circulate at the base of the oil filter.
Probably not enough information available to diagnose this kind of problem without looking at the vehicle.

Is the check engine light ON?

I did initial research and see no known issues but willing to investigate further.
I changed the blower motor an resistor now...
Your Mercedes has an A/C computer inside the A/C control panel. You can actually use the a/c control panel to show problem codes. Here is a link to a Youtube video illustrating the procedure:

Hi, so I don&#39;t know much about cars bu...
I've experienced this problem before and the problem was mass air flow sensor wiring. The vehicle should be looked at by a technician equipped with a data scanner. Thanks,
Low refrigerant (due to a small refrigerant leak over time) is usually the culprit. Also, a faulty condenser fan will fail to remove "heat" from the system and reduce A/C cooling. Your car just needs to be checked out. Thanks.
Was on freeway car shUT off on me and didn...
Sounds like the head gasket is leaking water into the oil. A common term for the problem is a "blown head gasket." It's a common occurrence on 3.5L Chryslers.
Removal of the oil pan on your car calls for 6.8 hours when performed by a trained technician in a shop environment. Not a job you should tackle at home.
This is a 2.0 hour job in a shop. Requires removal of fan shroud. Removal of engine mount bolts, removal of transmission mount bolts. Raise engine off of mounts by lifting under the harmonic balancer until mounts can be removed. Or, schedule replacement at the shop.
The electrical portion of the Ac system needs to be checked out. Fuse, Relay, pressure switch, compressor clutch, etc. With the key on and A/C on, electrical power should flow through the circuit to turn on the compressor. Proper diagnosis is necessary. Thanks,
My AC blows hot air. Just one day stopped ...
The electrical portion of the Ac system needs to be checked out according to the wiring diagram supplied by VW. Fuse, Relay, pressure switch, compressor clutch, etc. With the key on and A/C on, electrical power should flow through the circuit to turn on the compressor. Proper diagnosis will be necessary to get your cold air blowing again. Thanks,
My AC blows hot air. Just one day stopped ...
The electrical portion of the Ac system needs to be checked out according to the wiring diagram supplied by VW. Fuse, Relay, pressure switch, compressor clutch, etc. With the key on and A/C on, electrical power should flow through the circuit to turn on the compressor. Proper diagnosis will be necessary to get your cold air blowing again. Thanks,
replaced engine a while back and AC unit w...
You should bring your Buick in for AC diagnosis. That kind of problem can be identified rather quickly by an A/C tech. I'd start by confirming that there is sufficient refrigerant in the system to allow operation. If the A/C compressor doesn't engage on command, I'd test the wire supplying the compressor clutch for 12 volts. If there's voltage, its the clutch. If no voltage, I'd work backwards through the wiring diagram to find the electrical fault. Thank you,
Where exactly is the termostat located?
Identify the water pump and trace the feed pipe back to the thermostat housing. In automatic transmission models, you must remove the exhaust manifold to gain access. This job calls for 2.0 hours when performed by a technician in a shop. Thank you.
Cold A/C is more about removing air and moisture from the refrigerant than charging the system. Removing air and moisture is done with a vacuum pump. Drawing a deep vacuum boils moisture. Then add refrigerant and recover refrigerant again to dislodge more stubborn water molecules. Vacuum again; then, charge. This level of proper A/C service costs $44.95 plus refrigerant. Vacuuming a system also reveals leaks which can be fixed at the same time to avoid future leak downs. Thanks.
I would use simple green or ammonia and a soft cloth. Avoid harsh chemicals. There is a coating on the inside of the throttle body that resists sludge buildup. Harsh chemicals can remove this coating. Thank you,
This job calls for 1.6 hours of shop time. Can be done with basic hand tools. Be careful not to deform or bend brake lines during installation of booster. Replace clevis pin if damaged. Be careful not to splash brake fluid on painted areas it may cause paint damage. If brake fluid is splashed on painted areas, wash it away with water immediately. Take care not to damage brake booster mounting bolt thread when installing. Due to the narrow angle of installation, the threads can be damaged by the dash panel.
at dealership 2 weeks later came on again ...
We need to know the exact code(s) that is causing the check engine light. I will scan it (no charge) and help you find the underlying problem if you want to come by. No appointment necessary.
I seen on this site that the actuator migh...
If the transfer case is an "electric shift" version; then, the problem you describe would likely be the transfer case shift actuator motor. This is a common problem. The shift actuator motor is mounted directly to the top rear of the transfer case, held on by 3 10mm bolts. It is available aftermarket for about $100.00. On the other hand, if the transfer case is the manual version (with a shift lever) then the problem is internal to the transfer case and is probably due to a worn shift fork or worn range fork.
Your power steering is not electric. It is a hydraulic pump driven by the accessory serpentine belt. There is an electronic power steering control module. There are several Technical Service Bulletins on this problem; but, it will require further investigation to determine the exact problem. Let me know if you have further questions or need the car looked at. Thank you.
My #4 piston is cracked n i want it replac...
I would estimate cost to be in the thousands. It would require removal of the engine which opens up a world of possible extra costs. Also, the #4 cylinder may be damaged beyond repair requiring a new engine. Also, one would wonder what caused the piston to crack or the rings to be damaged. I would likely steer you toward a good used engine from a reputable source. Thank you,
and loss of power. Rad. needs replaced yes...
You should be able to crank and run the truck for a few minutes with the old radiator to determine if serious damage has occurred. Just don't overheat the engine again. The worst problem might be a blown head gasket and warped cylinder head. Thank you.
replaced MAP, spark plug/wires and gaped p...
Vacuum is a result of air being sucked into the engine while it is running; therefore, if the engine is running it must have vacuum. You may contact me directly if you would like help closely diagnosing the problem. Thank you.
it sounds like i&#39;m starting a lawn mow...
When the starter is actuated, the small gear on the starter engages the larger gear on the flexplate. Without hearing the sound myself, I'd be leaning toward a flexplate issue. Would be easier to diagnose if I could hear the noise. Thanks.
When making turns it slows and stall, but ...
The problem may be in fuel delivery, ignition, or transmission. It really needs an experienced person to help you discern the exact problem. Thanks.
Your 2005 Mitsubishi Endeavor is equipped with an onboard computer. You should start by having the computer scanned for error codes. Many shops, including ours, will perform the scan at no charge. Thanks.
The power steering system needs to be fully examined by a mechanic of your choice. Both a steering pump failure and a steering gear box failure would result in hard steering. Steering is an important system that should be inspected by a professional. Thanks.
Thank you for such a well written question. I hope my answer is as such.

Problem: HVAC Mode Control Module

Here's how it works: On cold start, most drivers back through their exhaust fumes. Cars are designed to automatically close off the cabin from outside air when you enter Reverse gear. The little servo motor is trying to close the vent door but the gears are stripped. It just keeps trying and trying, making that clicking grinding noise.

When you put the car in Drive, the system reverts to Fresh Air Mode and the grinding stops.

Common problem on an otherwise well designed Chrysler 300.

It's a 1 day fix that costs 220.00.

In my experience, SRS lights on Mercedes' range from less expensive (seat belt buckle sensor) to most expensive (SRS module + dealer programming). The only way to know is to have your car's computer scanned. SRS is an acronym for Supplemental Restraint System which is a fancy way of describing the car's air bags. When the SRS light is on, the airbags are turned off by the computer and will not deploy in a crash. Hope this helps. Thank for your inquiry.
When I pull the alternator fuse to trouble...
Your problem most likely is in the Stator Circuit of the alternator. If the Stator circuit is shorted to open (disconnected), the charge warning indicator will turn on, even if the alternator is operating normally.

The charging warning indicator will turn on if the Stator circuit voltage is zero. The warning indicator will turn off if the Stator circuit voltage is greater than 5 volts.

ac system is functioning but only when you...
Are you certain the problem is PCM related? How did you arrive at that conclusion? It's more likely a pressure switch or other sensor is failing to authorize compressor function; or, that the level of refrigerant is low.

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