Q&A

I've only had this car for 2 years. I have never had the A/C serviced. The mechanic said the freon is good. He thinks it's a clogged "orifce." Is this the filter you're referring to?

With the ac on, and running at idle, put water throught the grill on the condensor (front of radiator). Problem with these cars, and some other Ford cars is that the newer style uses an expansion valve instead of an oriface tube. It will stick open, and not allow low side expansion in evap core. But a bad compressor will give a similar gauge reading. Usually just change the xpansion valve 1st. But on the freestyle,you have to pull the intake to get to the xpansion valve on center of firewall. If lo side pressure still hi, then probably have to replace compressor.

Thank you. I'll give that a try.

You do not have to remove intake, just remove the upper cross brace, then there is plenty of room to reach behind from the drivers side. I replaced due to high low side pressure @ idle (70) , normal above 3000 rpm. It did not fix problem, looks like compressor issue

I just read on another site that there is a scroll compressor control valve that can be replaced for like $30 from tech choice parts. They had the same issue and thats what im dealing with also. I know its not a filter because it didnt just gradually get that way. it seemed to happen pretty fast. I'm going to order the part and try that. You do have to evacuate the system though. Still lots cheaper than a compressor.

I had the same probelms as above. Hot day, warm air from vents. Freeway driving, cooler, but not COLD air.

I had it into Ford and they said that the system was working fine........

I did a bunch of research and found some links to the problem.

I am placing this info here for those that were like me and trying to find the answer with no help from the professionals...

The AC compressor is a newer scroll type that uses a control valve located in the rear of the compressor. This valve fails to function properly and most people change the entire compressor and magically, they fix the problem when they could have only replaced the control valve for $30.00 like I did and get the same result!!!

I am not saying that this will work in every instance BUT, with less than 30K miles on my car, the chances of a bad compressor were very low.

Here is a link to the replacement part:

http://www.techchoiceparts.com/ShowItem/116597-Scroll%20C...

This valve is located on the back side of the compressor and can be changed without getting under the car... YOU MUST EVACUATE THE R-134A FIRST!!! If you remove the retaining plate with the system charged, it will blow all of the refrigerant out on you. I simply evacuated the system first and then replaced the valve. The valve comes as the brass piece with its seal. You must remove the retaining plate from the rear of the compressor which is held in with two bolts. I have included a link to a photo of the plate below:

http://ejneary.home.comcast.net/~ejneary/images/freestyle...

So, here is the procedure:

1. Evacuate refrigerant
2. Remove two 10mm bolts on rear of compressor
3. Remove old control valve with spring
4. Move spring to new control valve
5. replace spring and control valve in compressor
6. Replace retaining plate with two bolts
7. Tighten bolts
8. re-charge system
9. cold air will come out of vents at idle.

I hope that this helps some people. I spent HOURS researching this problem and none of the "Experts" were of any help.