Symptoms: My car's brain is signalling a continuous warning to my dash, indicating that my trunk is open. The convertible top will not operate if the trunk is open, so it's stuck in
the down position and the rains are coming!
IN THE BEGINNING...My "reverse" and license plate lights weren't working. The bulbs were ok. The 10amp fuse for the "reverse" lights was blown. Put a new fuse in. No change,
but the new fuse didn't blow.
I knew that the wiring harness that runs from the trunk to inside the trunkLID via a rubber "snorkel" was stressesd and prone to chafing and breaking wires, so I wanted to inspect
On pulling the snorkel free at each end I immediately saw several problem wires (out of the 14 or so power and ground wires that run through it). I don't doubt that several failed as
I was trying to gently do the inspection.
I can't locate a good wiring diagram. If I could, I might not understand it anyway. At this point I have spliced in additional wire to reconnect all of the power wires according to color
code. I'm left with 6 unlabelled ground (neutral? - wiring isn't my thing) wires, all solid brown in color. I was able to get my "reverse" circuit working but I can't seem to get he
remaining "browns" doped out correctly by normal process of elimination.
The car has a central locking system; a power release for the trunk that NORMALLY can be operated from a button inside the car and als by the keyfob; a monitoring system that
includes the trunk open/closed deal that won't allow the top to be operated if the trunk is thought to be open (I verified this in the owners manual); and in case it matters - the
trunklid center brake light is of the LED variety (original equipment).
Last thought: I have checked all the fuses every-so-often to see if any blew during my work. None have.
Can anyone help me figure out the proper approach to finding the right brown wire configuration? Maybe there is a sequence or combination involved?
Thanks very much for your time.