Please help! 1992 E350 w/5.8L, 160k miles. 4 weeks into this mysterious No Start problem now. :-( Unable to have it towed anywhere because of remote location. Update to where I'm at with the engine: Electrical: New Ignition Coil, Distributor (PIP), Cap, Rotor, Wires, Plugs, ICM, Ignition Switch, PCM Relay and Fuel Pump Relay Fuel: New Fuel Pump, Filter, Fuel Pressure Regulator Sensors replaced: ICM, IAC, MAP Checked: Fuel Inertia Switch, Fuel Pressure @ 40psi, Fresh gasoline, No air restriction that I can see, all hoses connected, sprayed carb cleaner in Throttle neck. Currently, it is now in a No Start condition. In the first 3 weeks the engine would start for 6-10 sec then die. Now, it *almost* catches at WOT but will not not start at all, even with Starting Fluid (Ether). Reset codes by disconnecting the battery for 10 min. Still generating only Codes 55 and 56 the last 4 weeks in KOEO mode since the engine will not start, much less Idle. Any 5.8L/351windsor gurus out there?
1992 E350 5.8L No Start condition despite a lot of new parts. on 1992 Ford E-350
by cjlopr in Kamuela, HI on November 30, 2012
1 answer 4 comments
ANSWER by pushrod on November 30, 2012
Ok lets see, we have good ON TIME spark at the plugs, good fresh fuel ENTERING the cylindes, CORRECT compression, CLEAR exhaust path. If all the above is right, start the van and drive away. Make sure dist. is set correctly also check to see if you have drowned plugs with spray. Pull a couple of plugs and see if they are wet. May have to install all new ones again. Check oil level, make sure it is not over filled if press. reg. was bad. Get back ti us on this one.
COMMENT by cjlopr on December 01, 2012
Thank you wetry for the quick response! Oil sump is overfilled by 2 quarts; how does that affect the Start sequence? I used my Inductive Timing Light this evening and EVERY cylinder was producing a double flash. The second flash was 1/10 second after the first flash. Is this crossfire from the other, brand new, silicone wires? I need to highlight the marks on the balancer to see them better to verify Timing and will pull the plugs to see if they are wet or fouled. Previous plugs were severely carbonized but produced a spark. Will check compression and exhaust path tomorrow also. Thank you for the insight and advice...
COMMENT by pushrod on December 01, 2012
Do an oil/filter change. Best way to check spark is old school, with a phillip screwdriver ( with a GOOD handle)inserted in the piug wire,hold the shank about 1/2 inch from a metal ground to see if a good blue spark will jump the gap that is about the right amount of KV. With new wires should not be any induction (crossfire) as you mentioned in the wires, but the light may pick some up i don't know. As for the crankcase being to full it has to do with pressure/vaccum we could talk about that a bunch but no need to. Just chang the oil. Hope you get it going as i am sure you will.
COMMENT by ziptie12 on December 01, 2012
Just a thought , but years ago I had what sounds very similar. Loosen the exhaust somewhere infront of the converters , with NEW plugs OEM is best(my opinion) see if it starts. If it does , you've got an exhaust restriction (converter(s). IF you can 'breath' in but can't exhale , you won't go very far. Engines need to breath! Hope I'm right , only because I know how frustrated you must be by now. The one I had was a Mazda B2300 and I got it in pieces from the dealer (cust. towed it to me) ,needless to say , I didn't get the full story on why the engine was all apart (more specifically the cause of failure) but it ended up needing 3 converters.Good luck!!!
COMMENT by pushrod on December 03, 2012
Good idea, can remove o2 sensors but if it starts do not let it run more than a couple of seconds, I made that mistake ONCE. Or check back pressure but that is the technical way to do it and hell i can't have that! So 4 habaneros walk into a bar and pick a fight with 1 red scorpion,